Chapter Nine
On Life in Southeast Asia:
“There is Thailand”, a local told me on my first week in Cambodia, “and 25 years behind Thailand is Vietnam. And 25 years behind Vietnam is Cambodia.”
Last weekend was my first opportunity to leave Cambodia, and I met a fellow 2L in Bangkok. As the plane was landing, I peered out on the skyscrapers of the capital. From the sky, the local’s statement rang true—below stood a modernized Phnom Penh, with 50 years of development.
There were many similarities between the capital cities. In both, young women sit in front of small massage parlors, bellowing out to those that walk by. The two have unyielding heat, emanating off of the uneven roads and crowds of people. Small containers of “tiger-balm”—Southeast Asia’s cure-all ointment—is proudly displayed in each of the cities. And they share a charm that stems from endless restaurants and food stands, bars, and cafes.
But I immediately knew I was in a different place. Bangkok had sidewalks, albeit cramped and bumpy sidewalks. Intersections offered pedestrian overpasses and crosswalks, helping you avoid the siege of motorbikes. There were subways and sky-trains waiting to whisk you to a different neighborhood. Twenty-four hour 7-elevens also sat on every street corning, selling beers that cost more than $1.
Bangkok’s Ratchada Night-Market was a cross between a festival and an extravagant tag sale. We fought through a mob of people to reach a sea of stalls and stands. Individuals rushed in between the stalls like waves, creating a blur of colors from the clutched fruits, scarves and phone cases. But even in the midst of the chaos, women sat on stools for manicures and men waited in line for haircuts. Until the heat wore us down, we snaked in and out of the market, examining the merchandise, people-watching, and enjoying the laidback mayhem.
News from the Khmer Rouge Tribunal:
On August 4th, Nuon Chea—or “Brother Number Two”—died in Cambodia. The 93 year old was a Co-Defendant in Case 002, and was convicted of genocide, crimes against humanity and grave breaches of the Geneva Conventions. Because of the advanced age and poor health of Nuon Chea and his Co-Defendant, Khieu Samphân, the Khmer Rouge Tribunal broke their prosecution into two trials—Case 002/01 and Case 002/02. Nuon Chea died shortly after filing his notice of appeal for Case 002/02 with the Supreme Court Chamber. Case 002/01 was already fully adjudicated, and an appellate judgment was entered against the two Khmer Rouge Leaders.
Nuon Chea maintained his view of the Khmer Rouge period throughout the proceedings. He is known for his statement that the Communist Party of Kampuchea “only killed the bad people, not the good.” He continued to support his innocence throughout the two trials against him. He did, however, issue a few apologies for the crimes committed during the Democratic Kampuchea era. He stated, “As a leader, I must take responsibility or the damage, the danger to my nation.” He also asserted, “we are very sorry not only for the lives of the people of Cambodia, but even for the lives of all animals that suffered because of the war.” Nuon Chea died while serving a sentence of life imprisonment.