Week One: Introductions To Cafe Culture
I came to Pristina through Istanbul. It was not my first time flying internationally, but it was my first time flying alone. No one was waiting for me at the airport. I had already steeled myself for a summer of unknowns and potential loneliness. As a precaution, I had printed out the directions to my apartment in the official languages of Kosovo, Albanian and Serbian, before I left. The taxi driver looked at it, and drove in silence for awhile. Then he asked if I spoke English, if I was American, and if the United States was going to do anything about what was happening in the north of the country. I was then given a crash-course in Balkan politics, a free tour of the monuments to Bill Clinton and Kosovan independence, and pictures of the driver's four adorable grandchildren.
Before the end of the week, the daughter of the woman I am renting my apartment from invited me out for the night on Coffee and Rakia street- coffee being espresso, and rakia being a strong Albanian liquor made from grapes or plums and is usually house-made. We talked and laughed for hours, as seemingly ever young person in Pristina passed through.
My first day in the office, I realized this culture of warmth and hospitality spilled over into the workplace. My coworkers insisted on treating me to lunch. Every day since, we have tried a new (well, new to me) restaurant in Pristina. We work in the center of the city, so it is possible to eat lunch and check out landmarks such as the national library and the Newborn monument.
Of all the monuments, the Newborn monument best encapsulates the character of Pristina. It perfectly reflects the energy, the hope, and the life force I feel surrounding me. It is a testament to a young nation with a long, hard history which promises to keep pushing forward.