Rwandan Reunion: A Journey of Culture, Commemoration, and Celebration

Celebrating Rwanda: Independence, Liberation, and a Long Weekend at Lake Kivu

This past week marked the arrival of my sister, who will be staying here for the next two weeks. We share a love for travel and exploration, making this reunion in Rwanda particularly special. Currently living in Paris, France, she found flights to Rwanda more convenient and affordable than those from the United States. Her timing was impeccable, coinciding with Rwanda's national holidays - Independence Day and Liberation Day. This week is dedicated to commemorating the end of the genocide and the country's democratic evolution marked by the election of a president.

The celebrations extended into a five-day weekend, allowing my sister and I to spend some quality time at Lake Kivu, Rwanda’s largest lake. Our time at the lake was tranquil and filled with cultural exploration of the local lifestyle. We journeyed there via a public bus from Kigali, an approximately four-hour ride, providing us with a chance to experience local transportation and witness Rwanda from a closer, more personal perspective.

Upon arrival, we relished the locally renowned Sambaza fish, native to Lake Kivu. The local culture is intimately connected to these fish; fishermen embark on nightly expeditions, starting before sunset around 5 p.m. and continuing until 10 a.m. the next morning. The fishing technique involves rowing out into the lake and using lanterns to lure the fish to the water's surface. Throughout the night, the fishermen sing songs to stay motivated. We were fortunate to witness this nightly ritual from a boat during sunset.

Fishing is primarily a male occupation here, but the women play an essential role in selling the catch at local markets. This gendered division of labor fosters a thriving local economy based on Sambaza fish, which are then sold as a cultural dish throughout Rwanda. Apart from the fishing tradition, we also explored the various islands dotted across the lake. We marveled at the sight of local cows, famous for their swimming skills, traversing great distances between islands.

One of our stops was Napoleon Island, named for its resemblance to Napoleon's hat, which is home to hundreds of bats. We also visited Monkey Island, inhabited by blue monkeys, distinguished by their silver-white fur and bright blue reproductive organs. Our final stop was Punishment Island, historically used to banish unmarried pregnant women. The women, untaught in swimming and left without resources, would have faced certain death, but fortunately, fishermen from Congo rescued them. Today, the socio-political ties between Congo and Rwanda are not as strong due to Congo's ongoing internal challenges.

Schoolyard Celebrations: Embracing Local Joy and Academic Achievements in the Rwandan Countryside

Upon returning from our holidays, we visited a high school in Rwanda's countryside, as requested by the students. They wanted us to join them in celebrating the end of their terms and the distribution of academic excellence awards. This visit was one of my most cherished experiences in Rwanda. The students performed theater pieces and traditional Rwandan dances. My boss, Joelle, presented a cake to the students, sparking an outpouring of celebration, dancing, and laughter. The festivities culminated in an impromptu catwalk involving students, my bosses, and me. The joyous reception and immersion in their culture made this a truly unforgettable experience.